TED-Ed: The physics of surfing - Nick Pizzo

Wondering how you can catch the perfect wave? Dive into the fascinating and complex physics of surfing. -- Whether or not you realize it, surfers are masters of complicated physics. The science of surfing begins as soon as a board first hits the water. Surfers may not be thinking about weather patterns in the Pacific, tectonic geology or fluid mechanics, but the art of catching the perfect wave relies on all these things and more. Nick Pizzo dives into the gnarly physics that make surfing possible.
Lesson by Nick Pizzo, directed by Wonderlust.